How to Visit a French Market

My family and I were fortunate enough to host a French exchange student in my last year of high school... and I've been fortunate enough to keep in touch with her, getting to know her sweet family in the process. During my mom and sister's visit, the six of us escaped the crowds of Paris for Fontainebleau. This charming Parisian suburb is known for its scenic forest--formally a favorite hunting ground of French kings and now a popular weekend getaway for all city-dwellers. I especially love it for its market though. It was my mom and sister's first visit to a French one.

Crowds were bustling, vendors were shouting (occasionally), and English was nowhere to be heard on that Sunday morning. As it would be most others, I assume. In these way, markets are very much unlike museums. Very few of the products are preserved (e.g. fresh fruits and vegetables), there are no suggestions as to which route to take, and interaction with others is necessary. It occured to me then that "the market" I've come to appreciate might be an intimidating environment for my mom and sister, and any newcomer for that matter. I tried to guide them through with the best of my non-expert tips I've developed in the past few months...

1. Bring more than one reusable tote, preferably a strong one. I've visited markets with "a list" but  always end up getting more than I bargained for (no pun intended). There's always a more diverse selection than expected.
2. Have cash! (Perhaps this should have been my first tip.) Very few merchants accept credit cards. Thankfully, I've found most markets are close to at least one bank. Fontainebleau's, for instance, is in the city's center square.

3. Arriving early provides the best selection. Arriving late provides the best prices. In other words, there's no wrong time to go to the market :).

4. Ask questions. Market-vendors and -goers are probably part of the same community and I've found them to be both friendly and helpful when I thoughtfully practice my French. I doubt I'd be able to navigate my way through a cheese selection without, "Excusez-moi, comment est-ce le goût?"

5. Do a lap before making any purchases. There is undoubtedly going to be more than one flower stand as well as one for every other kind of product so its nice to scope out quality and selection first. Lines are indicative of both.

6. Enjoy samples if you can. Although pain d'épices is not my favorite, I was thrilled that myself, my mom, and my sister were able to try it the weekend before last. How festive.

7. Observe the transactions. I've found that handling items, including fruits and vegetables, before purchase isn't often done in France... even if the baskets are within reach. Follow the example of the customers in front of you.

8. Expect seasonal. Freshly picked fruits and vegetables are the most readily available (and cheapest) so it'll be obvious what is in season in that sense. You may be surprised to find, however, that particular game, foul, fish, breads, pastries, and wine are only available at specific times of the year. The same goes for holiday treats; of course! Enjoy them while you can.

Le Place du Marché de Fontainbleau

Où? Le Place du Marché, 77305 Fontainebleau

Quand? Tuesday, Friday, Sunday, 9am-1pm

Comment? RER/TGV



La brocante by happenstance

My mom and sister came to visit me over their Thanksgiving break. It was their first time in Paris. As eager as I was to bring them museums though, I was also adamant about creating a unique, non-touristy experience. For their first full day then, I proposed a walking tour, and much to my delight, we happened to stumble upon a brocante.

 "In the late 19th century, not that long before the walls were razed [in Paris], beggars and drifters were chased out of town by city ordinance, and so were the chiffonniers, or ragpickers, who scoured the streets by night scavenging discarded goods to sell by day. They were known as biffins (foot-soldiers) or crocheteurs—either a porter who carries heavy goods on crochets (hooks), or a lock picker, possibly indicating that some of the scavenged goods had not yet been discarded. They were also called pêcheurs de lune, or fishermen of the moon.

Ousted, they began to congregate just beyond the fortifications, near the portes of Montreuil, Vanves and Clignancourt, to sell their ragged wares, and gradually the flea markets took shape. The “flea” tag may have come from the scruffy condition of sellers and stuff, but the semi-official story goes that an observer, looking down from the heights of the fortifications, saw the tiny figures far below as flea-sized. Either way, the name stuck, and eventually the markets became popular—even fashionable—spots for weekend chineurs (bargain hunters) out to fouiner (nose around) for antiques and brocante (bric-a-brac). "

Thanks to Judy Fayard's words in a September 2010 issue of France Today, now you and I both know.

It was pretty amazing to think that myself, my mom, and my sister, all appreciators of antique items--paintings, art deco, ceramics, furniture from the 60s and 70s, silver, vintage clothing, kitchenware, jewelery--were in a place where the entire concept of an antique market began. Especially being that Paris literally has more history than New York.

paintings, ceramics, silver, art deco, 60s and 70s items, linens, books, militaria, kitchenware, - See more at: http://www.fleamarketinsiders.com/best-flea-markets-in-france/#sthash.ZvG5I1Sz.dpuf

paintings, ceramics, silver, art deco, 60s and 70s items, linens, books, militaria, kitchenware, - See more at: http://www.fleamarketinsiders.com/best-flea-markets-in-france/#sthash.ZvG5I1Sz.dpuf

One man's trash is another man's treasure; and as such, they left with a few one-of-a-kind souvenirs.

I'm not sure if this particular brocante takes place weekly, but if so, you can visit it in the norther Marais on Friday mornings. Metro Temple is best. Otherwise, check out this comprehensive list from The Guardian.

Sounds of Le Marché de Clignancourt

Following a morning study session at KBCafeshop, I intended to go to Marchés aux puces de Saint-Ouen. According to Dixon Long and Marjorie R. Williams of Markets of Paris,"Thought it's called a flea market Clignancourt has evolved into an antiques market with a very large number of specialists, as well as generalists who offer everything from period armchairs to World War II aircraft parts."  I knew I'd appreciate the antiques despite the fact that I most likely wouldn't be able to afford them. But on my way from the metro, I got caught in the clothing and jewelry market.

It wasn't the selection nor the displays that caught my attention... it was the sounds. Unlike many of the markets I'd visited, French was not the predominant language, and many vendors were playing music I'd never heard before. Still, to be completely--though not unapologetically--honest, I didn't feel comfortable photographing or filming the scene. I didn't want to stand out any more than I already did. Instead, I decided to record it. Please enjoy the audio clip below:

Le Marché de Clignancourt

Où? Avenue de la Porte de Clignancourt & rue René Binet, 75018 Paris

Quand? Saturday, 8:30am-6:30pm; Sunday, 10am-6:30pm; Monday, 10:30am-5:30pm

Comment? Metro Porte de Clignancourt

Community at le Marché de Morlaix

In the wake of Hurricane Sandy and the damage it has caused in my beloved city of New York, I've been thinking a lot about community as a concept. There's a particular spirit and humanitarian support that arises from disaster. “I feel often that we don’t have the right language to talk about emotions in disasters. Everyone is on edge, of course, but it also pulls people away from a lot of trivial anxieties and past and future concerns and gratuitous preoccupations that we have, and refocuses us in a very intense way… In some ways, people behave better than in ordinary life and in some disasters people find [out about] the meaningful role of deep social connections and see their absence in everyday life,” Rebecca Solnit, author of A Paradise Built in Hell told TIME magazine in an interview.

On a smaller, much less intense scale, it reminds me of the incredible sense of "community" I have been observing and experience at markets within France. And even more so, of "the community" I most recently visited in Morlaix.

Morlaix is one of a handful of larger towns in the northwestern-most region of Bretagne. In the Middle Ages it was a center of trade between Brittany, England, Spain, and Holland. Today it is still surrounded by farms and open fields and the ocean is literally a hop, skip, and a jump away. As such, the various fish, vegetables, cheeses, breads, honeys, etc. offered by the same vendors who raised or caught or cut or made the products themselves are beyond fresh.

And beyond that, more than half the shoppers knew these vendors personally. "Comment allez-vous, monsieur/madame?" was just as quickly asked as it was followed by, "et votre famille?" Conversation ("how are you? and your family?") nearly triumphed transaction.

With that said, these rural industries appeared to be doing just fine. The products were selling quickly, perhaps due in some part to the strong bonds built throughout all sides of the market industry.

As Michéle de la Pradelle wrote in Market Day in Provence (translated by Amy Jacobs), "The markets themselves played a marginal role in distribution networks, but the modern public loved these powerful moments of local life, which gave them a traste of types of social interaction, sociability, that had more or less vanished. In the cold world of market rationality, markets offered a little extra soul."

Whether it is felt in a small city of France or a big city like New York, there is comfort in this nostalgia of a simpler time and closer human connection. If only it could be felt on a large scale outside the realm of hard times.

Le Marché de Morlaix

Où? Hotel de Ville, Morlaix

Quand? Saturday, 8am-2pm

Comment? TGV

London has markets, too

Although I was more than thrilled to visit at least one British museum, I was disappointed to not have had the chance to visit a market while in London last weekend. I don't think the British define themselves by their markets as much as the French do, but they certainly have a few to brag about. Had I been in the market for quirky treasures, Grays Antique Market would have been the place to be. If I'd been searching for a "funky outfit," a stop into Spitalsfields Market would have been necessary. And had I wanted to feast my eyes on one of the world's oldest and largest food markets, I really should have spent an afternoon at Borough Market. I most regret not visiting Camden Market though. I was so, so close just one week ago. According to visitlondon.com, surrounding Market Hall "you’ll find small shops and market stalls selling everything from vintage fashion, handmade jewellery and beautiful homewares sourced from around the globe." Sounds wonderful, doesn't it? Let's take a virtual visit:

Overall, it feels a lot less nostalgic (a.k.a. more modern) than French markets, yet there are still the same crowds of locals and visitors from various walks of life in addition to a seemingly countless number of treasures. Perhaps I'll have to plan another visit to London soon? This video paired with the the fact that I know I'd be able to interact with each and every vendor (thanks to the fact that they too are native English speakers) has gotten me more than intrigued.

Organic at Le Marché Batignolles

France isn't just a country that appreciates meal time, it's also a country that frowns upon many of the practices that have, in my humble opinion, spoiled the American food system. The French have been actively resisting GMOs and many of the pesticides which have been approved and promoted within agriculture in the U.S. Some have also gone as far as to jump on the organic, or rather, "bio" food wagon. Although I can't say I only eat organic--I neither have the budget nor the patience to do so--I do value it in the sense that I believe it's the way all food should be.

Lucky for me, Paris market culture has embraced the belief as well. Le Marché Raspail (on Sunday mornings) is the largest organic food market in Paris, but the second largest is at Batignolles... exactly two metro stops away or a brisk 20-minute walk from my humble abode. It is teeming with fruits, vegetables, cheeses, meats, flowers, clothing, dairy products, breads, raw nuts, dried fruits, honeys, jams, and lightly prepared foods. In other words, it's a pesticide-fertizilizer-GMO-antiobiotic-hormone-(etc)-free feast for the eyes. Seriously though:

Though there have been countless debates as to whether organic food really is more nutritious, my belief is that it is most likely safer for our bodies and most definitely better for the environment. I, like many Parisians it seems, am very much committed to supporting the two.

Le Marché Biologique des Batignolles
Où? Boulevard des Batignolles from rue Turin to rue de Moscou, Paris 75017
Quand? Saturday, 8am-2pm
Comment? Metro Rome, Place de Clichy; Bus 30

(Originally published on www.danielle-abroad.com)

A social affair at Le Marché Couvert Enfants Rouges

I wasn't sure what to expect of the oldest covered market in Paris, established in 1628. I also hadn't known how it got its name--"enfants rouges" refers to the children dressed in red who had lived in the orphanage originally situated on the site. Sadly, much of its history was lost in the '80s when the original Baltard-style building was torn down.

As a result, Enfants Rouges Covered Market is quite unassuming and lacks most (if not all) of the charm that the 3rd arrondissement is known for. Yet it still manages to be wonderfully appealing. This historical Parisian site seems to have captured the essence of what the city is today: multicultural. 

Tables surround the unimpressive structure where tourists join locals to enjoy Lebanese, Italian, Moroccan, French, Caribbean, and Belgian delicacies. I couldn't resist the 12.90 euro assiette from the Lebanese stand which includes three salads + falafels/brochette of lamb/marinated chicken + stewed vegetables with herbs + flat bread + baklava/juice.

With my appetite deliciously appeased, I then wandered to marvel at the international food products (and other menus):

This is a market to visit with friends of all ages (if you're lucky, they'll be as cute company as Miss Adelaide pictured above) for lunch, a glass of wine, or even to pick up food to-go. There are flowers and produce for purchase as well. 

Le Marché Couvert Enfants Rouges
Où? 39, rue de Bretagne, Paris 75003
Quand? Tuesday- Saturday, 8:30am-1pm, 4pm-7:30pm (8pm on Friday and Saturday); Sunday, 8:30am-2pm
Comment? Metro Temple, Filles du Calvaire

P.S. Be sure to check out the antique stands to the left of the back exit! They too have their fair share of world treasures.