Community at le Marché de Morlaix

In the wake of Hurricane Sandy and the damage it has caused in my beloved city of New York, I've been thinking a lot about community as a concept. There's a particular spirit and humanitarian support that arises from disaster. “I feel often that we don’t have the right language to talk about emotions in disasters. Everyone is on edge, of course, but it also pulls people away from a lot of trivial anxieties and past and future concerns and gratuitous preoccupations that we have, and refocuses us in a very intense way… In some ways, people behave better than in ordinary life and in some disasters people find [out about] the meaningful role of deep social connections and see their absence in everyday life,” Rebecca Solnit, author of A Paradise Built in Hell told TIME magazine in an interview.

On a smaller, much less intense scale, it reminds me of the incredible sense of "community" I have been observing and experience at markets within France. And even more so, of "the community" I most recently visited in Morlaix.

Morlaix is one of a handful of larger towns in the northwestern-most region of Bretagne. In the Middle Ages it was a center of trade between Brittany, England, Spain, and Holland. Today it is still surrounded by farms and open fields and the ocean is literally a hop, skip, and a jump away. As such, the various fish, vegetables, cheeses, breads, honeys, etc. offered by the same vendors who raised or caught or cut or made the products themselves are beyond fresh.

And beyond that, more than half the shoppers knew these vendors personally. "Comment allez-vous, monsieur/madame?" was just as quickly asked as it was followed by, "et votre famille?" Conversation ("how are you? and your family?") nearly triumphed transaction.

With that said, these rural industries appeared to be doing just fine. The products were selling quickly, perhaps due in some part to the strong bonds built throughout all sides of the market industry.

As Michéle de la Pradelle wrote in Market Day in Provence (translated by Amy Jacobs), "The markets themselves played a marginal role in distribution networks, but the modern public loved these powerful moments of local life, which gave them a traste of types of social interaction, sociability, that had more or less vanished. In the cold world of market rationality, markets offered a little extra soul."

Whether it is felt in a small city of France or a big city like New York, there is comfort in this nostalgia of a simpler time and closer human connection. If only it could be felt on a large scale outside the realm of hard times.

Le Marché de Morlaix

Où? Hotel de Ville, Morlaix

Quand? Saturday, 8am-2pm

Comment? TGV

London has markets, too

Although I was more than thrilled to visit at least one British museum, I was disappointed to not have had the chance to visit a market while in London last weekend. I don't think the British define themselves by their markets as much as the French do, but they certainly have a few to brag about. Had I been in the market for quirky treasures, Grays Antique Market would have been the place to be. If I'd been searching for a "funky outfit," a stop into Spitalsfields Market would have been necessary. And had I wanted to feast my eyes on one of the world's oldest and largest food markets, I really should have spent an afternoon at Borough Market. I most regret not visiting Camden Market though. I was so, so close just one week ago. According to visitlondon.com, surrounding Market Hall "you’ll find small shops and market stalls selling everything from vintage fashion, handmade jewellery and beautiful homewares sourced from around the globe." Sounds wonderful, doesn't it? Let's take a virtual visit:

Overall, it feels a lot less nostalgic (a.k.a. more modern) than French markets, yet there are still the same crowds of locals and visitors from various walks of life in addition to a seemingly countless number of treasures. Perhaps I'll have to plan another visit to London soon? This video paired with the the fact that I know I'd be able to interact with each and every vendor (thanks to the fact that they too are native English speakers) has gotten me more than intrigued.

Organic at Le Marché Batignolles

France isn't just a country that appreciates meal time, it's also a country that frowns upon many of the practices that have, in my humble opinion, spoiled the American food system. The French have been actively resisting GMOs and many of the pesticides which have been approved and promoted within agriculture in the U.S. Some have also gone as far as to jump on the organic, or rather, "bio" food wagon. Although I can't say I only eat organic--I neither have the budget nor the patience to do so--I do value it in the sense that I believe it's the way all food should be.

Lucky for me, Paris market culture has embraced the belief as well. Le Marché Raspail (on Sunday mornings) is the largest organic food market in Paris, but the second largest is at Batignolles... exactly two metro stops away or a brisk 20-minute walk from my humble abode. It is teeming with fruits, vegetables, cheeses, meats, flowers, clothing, dairy products, breads, raw nuts, dried fruits, honeys, jams, and lightly prepared foods. In other words, it's a pesticide-fertizilizer-GMO-antiobiotic-hormone-(etc)-free feast for the eyes. Seriously though:

Though there have been countless debates as to whether organic food really is more nutritious, my belief is that it is most likely safer for our bodies and most definitely better for the environment. I, like many Parisians it seems, am very much committed to supporting the two.

Le Marché Biologique des Batignolles
Où? Boulevard des Batignolles from rue Turin to rue de Moscou, Paris 75017
Quand? Saturday, 8am-2pm
Comment? Metro Rome, Place de Clichy; Bus 30

(Originally published on www.danielle-abroad.com)

A social affair at Le Marché Couvert Enfants Rouges

I wasn't sure what to expect of the oldest covered market in Paris, established in 1628. I also hadn't known how it got its name--"enfants rouges" refers to the children dressed in red who had lived in the orphanage originally situated on the site. Sadly, much of its history was lost in the '80s when the original Baltard-style building was torn down.

As a result, Enfants Rouges Covered Market is quite unassuming and lacks most (if not all) of the charm that the 3rd arrondissement is known for. Yet it still manages to be wonderfully appealing. This historical Parisian site seems to have captured the essence of what the city is today: multicultural. 

Tables surround the unimpressive structure where tourists join locals to enjoy Lebanese, Italian, Moroccan, French, Caribbean, and Belgian delicacies. I couldn't resist the 12.90 euro assiette from the Lebanese stand which includes three salads + falafels/brochette of lamb/marinated chicken + stewed vegetables with herbs + flat bread + baklava/juice.

With my appetite deliciously appeased, I then wandered to marvel at the international food products (and other menus):

This is a market to visit with friends of all ages (if you're lucky, they'll be as cute company as Miss Adelaide pictured above) for lunch, a glass of wine, or even to pick up food to-go. There are flowers and produce for purchase as well. 

Le Marché Couvert Enfants Rouges
Où? 39, rue de Bretagne, Paris 75003
Quand? Tuesday- Saturday, 8:30am-1pm, 4pm-7:30pm (8pm on Friday and Saturday); Sunday, 8:30am-2pm
Comment? Metro Temple, Filles du Calvaire

P.S. Be sure to check out the antique stands to the left of the back exit! They too have their fair share of world treasures.

Always open-air, sometimes organic at Le Marché Raspail

Sunday is market day in Paris, but so is Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. It's really whenever I have a chance to wander through one that I do. And my gosh how I feel so quintessentially French!

Last week, I ventured to Boulevard Raspail in the 6e arrondissement. This easily accessible market runs in the median of the busy street, flanked by lush trees and Haussmann-style buildings. Although it's mostly  food market (and an amazing one at that), a few friendly vendors sell handbags, sweaters, flowers, or housewares instead.

"In the early 1900s, a movement to disband covered market led to the creation of this open-air food market," (Markets of Paris). More recently, another  movement has transformed this market into the largest and most popular organic market on Sundays. Come by after noon for a cheaper produce prices and for tastings of natural wines at Julien Caviste's stand.

Le Marché Raspail
Où? Boulevard Raspail from rue Cherche-Midi to rue de Rennes, 75006 Paris
Quand? Tuesday & Friday, 8am-1:30pm; Sunday, 8am-3pm (organic produce)
Comment? Metro Rennes

Brunch at La Rue Montorgueil

There's something special about market streets in Paris. They don't just have fresh food and flowers but any business you could possibly need. This one, located in the 2e arrondissement on the edge of the 1e, is particularly convenient for visitors as it's so centrally located. Although crowded on a Saturday morning, its ancient charm prevails.

I recommend sitting down for brunch in one of the many restaurants to watch the crowds of tourists and Parisians mingle. Au Rocher de Cancale is especially affordable at 13 euros for a generous and delicious prix-fixe menu. 

Then, perhaps you can pick up some honey bread, drop off your dry cleaning, and sit down for one more coffee.

La Rue Montorgueil

Où? On rue Montorgueil from rue de Turbigo to rue Réaumur, Paris 75002

Quand? Tuesday-Saturday, 10am-6pm; Sunday morning

Comment? Metro Les Halles, Étienne Marcel, Sentier