La brocante by happenstance

My mom and sister came to visit me over their Thanksgiving break. It was their first time in Paris. As eager as I was to bring them museums though, I was also adamant about creating a unique, non-touristy experience. For their first full day then, I proposed a walking tour, and much to my delight, we happened to stumble upon a brocante.

 "In the late 19th century, not that long before the walls were razed [in Paris], beggars and drifters were chased out of town by city ordinance, and so were the chiffonniers, or ragpickers, who scoured the streets by night scavenging discarded goods to sell by day. They were known as biffins (foot-soldiers) or crocheteurs—either a porter who carries heavy goods on crochets (hooks), or a lock picker, possibly indicating that some of the scavenged goods had not yet been discarded. They were also called pêcheurs de lune, or fishermen of the moon.

Ousted, they began to congregate just beyond the fortifications, near the portes of Montreuil, Vanves and Clignancourt, to sell their ragged wares, and gradually the flea markets took shape. The “flea” tag may have come from the scruffy condition of sellers and stuff, but the semi-official story goes that an observer, looking down from the heights of the fortifications, saw the tiny figures far below as flea-sized. Either way, the name stuck, and eventually the markets became popular—even fashionable—spots for weekend chineurs (bargain hunters) out to fouiner (nose around) for antiques and brocante (bric-a-brac). "

Thanks to Judy Fayard's words in a September 2010 issue of France Today, now you and I both know.

It was pretty amazing to think that myself, my mom, and my sister, all appreciators of antique items--paintings, art deco, ceramics, furniture from the 60s and 70s, silver, vintage clothing, kitchenware, jewelery--were in a place where the entire concept of an antique market began. Especially being that Paris literally has more history than New York.

paintings, ceramics, silver, art deco, 60s and 70s items, linens, books, militaria, kitchenware, - See more at: http://www.fleamarketinsiders.com/best-flea-markets-in-france/#sthash.ZvG5I1Sz.dpuf

paintings, ceramics, silver, art deco, 60s and 70s items, linens, books, militaria, kitchenware, - See more at: http://www.fleamarketinsiders.com/best-flea-markets-in-france/#sthash.ZvG5I1Sz.dpuf

One man's trash is another man's treasure; and as such, they left with a few one-of-a-kind souvenirs.

I'm not sure if this particular brocante takes place weekly, but if so, you can visit it in the norther Marais on Friday mornings. Metro Temple is best. Otherwise, check out this comprehensive list from The Guardian.

Appreciating le Musée Jacquemart-André

Private art museums are quite astonishing entities. In addition to displaying unique and personal collections, they "afford visitors the rare opportunity to take a peek into the lives and passions of some of the world’s wealthiest and most powerful people, " as written by Emma Solely for Departures.com. And interestingly enough, we may have these wealthy and powerful people to thank for the creation of the museum in the first place. As published on FT.com: "What is generally considered to be one of the world’s first museums opened circa 1628 in Kennington, London, where John Tradescant would take visitors around his collection of curiosities gathered from his travels."

This past week, I had the opportunity to view the eclectic and refined tastes of Eduoard André and Nelly Jacquemart. Over a hundred years ago, they built a small palace within Paris to display their extraordinary collection and then bequeathed it in its entirely to the Institut de France in 1911. It was to be opened as a museum for the public though the layout could be changed and no art could be lent. It's amazing to think it is still just as dazzling a sight as it was then.

Spectacular, isn't it? And yet I found it most interesting to observe the visitors who were notably more mature and seemingly more cultured. This was visible in the clientele of the beautiful café and could also be inferred by the more expensive admission price (11 euros). I'd say it was worth it though. I especially loved the original work of Botticelli and Rembrandt and the visit is undeniably peaceful--it's as if you become privileged too by simply being there.

Le Musée Jacquemart-André

Où? 158, boulevard Haussmann, 75008 Paris

Quand? Daily,10am-6pm

Comment? Metro: Saint-Augustin, Miromesnil, Saint-Philippe du Roule, RER Charles de Gaule-Étoile, Bus 22, 43, 52, 54, 28, 89, 83, 84, 93

London has markets, too

Although I was more than thrilled to visit at least one British museum, I was disappointed to not have had the chance to visit a market while in London last weekend. I don't think the British define themselves by their markets as much as the French do, but they certainly have a few to brag about. Had I been in the market for quirky treasures, Grays Antique Market would have been the place to be. If I'd been searching for a "funky outfit," a stop into Spitalsfields Market would have been necessary. And had I wanted to feast my eyes on one of the world's oldest and largest food markets, I really should have spent an afternoon at Borough Market. I most regret not visiting Camden Market though. I was so, so close just one week ago. According to visitlondon.com, surrounding Market Hall "you’ll find small shops and market stalls selling everything from vintage fashion, handmade jewellery and beautiful homewares sourced from around the globe." Sounds wonderful, doesn't it? Let's take a virtual visit:

Overall, it feels a lot less nostalgic (a.k.a. more modern) than French markets, yet there are still the same crowds of locals and visitors from various walks of life in addition to a seemingly countless number of treasures. Perhaps I'll have to plan another visit to London soon? This video paired with the the fact that I know I'd be able to interact with each and every vendor (thanks to the fact that they too are native English speakers) has gotten me more than intrigued.

A social affair at Le Marché Couvert Enfants Rouges

I wasn't sure what to expect of the oldest covered market in Paris, established in 1628. I also hadn't known how it got its name--"enfants rouges" refers to the children dressed in red who had lived in the orphanage originally situated on the site. Sadly, much of its history was lost in the '80s when the original Baltard-style building was torn down.

As a result, Enfants Rouges Covered Market is quite unassuming and lacks most (if not all) of the charm that the 3rd arrondissement is known for. Yet it still manages to be wonderfully appealing. This historical Parisian site seems to have captured the essence of what the city is today: multicultural. 

Tables surround the unimpressive structure where tourists join locals to enjoy Lebanese, Italian, Moroccan, French, Caribbean, and Belgian delicacies. I couldn't resist the 12.90 euro assiette from the Lebanese stand which includes three salads + falafels/brochette of lamb/marinated chicken + stewed vegetables with herbs + flat bread + baklava/juice.

With my appetite deliciously appeased, I then wandered to marvel at the international food products (and other menus):

This is a market to visit with friends of all ages (if you're lucky, they'll be as cute company as Miss Adelaide pictured above) for lunch, a glass of wine, or even to pick up food to-go. There are flowers and produce for purchase as well. 

Le Marché Couvert Enfants Rouges
Où? 39, rue de Bretagne, Paris 75003
Quand? Tuesday- Saturday, 8:30am-1pm, 4pm-7:30pm (8pm on Friday and Saturday); Sunday, 8:30am-2pm
Comment? Metro Temple, Filles du Calvaire

P.S. Be sure to check out the antique stands to the left of the back exit! They too have their fair share of world treasures.

Always open-air, sometimes organic at Le Marché Raspail

Sunday is market day in Paris, but so is Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. It's really whenever I have a chance to wander through one that I do. And my gosh how I feel so quintessentially French!

Last week, I ventured to Boulevard Raspail in the 6e arrondissement. This easily accessible market runs in the median of the busy street, flanked by lush trees and Haussmann-style buildings. Although it's mostly  food market (and an amazing one at that), a few friendly vendors sell handbags, sweaters, flowers, or housewares instead.

"In the early 1900s, a movement to disband covered market led to the creation of this open-air food market," (Markets of Paris). More recently, another  movement has transformed this market into the largest and most popular organic market on Sundays. Come by after noon for a cheaper produce prices and for tastings of natural wines at Julien Caviste's stand.

Le Marché Raspail
Où? Boulevard Raspail from rue Cherche-Midi to rue de Rennes, 75006 Paris
Quand? Tuesday & Friday, 8am-1:30pm; Sunday, 8am-3pm (organic produce)
Comment? Metro Rennes